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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.